Additional Information

Step by Step... Epoxy Flooring Evaluation & Explanation:

Epoxy Floor Coating Detailed –

There are three major types of epoxy floor coating, all of which include water-based, solvent-based, and 100% cycloaliphatic solids. The water and solvent-based epoxies have epoxy resins in the range of 38-60 percent, whereas the 100% solid variant possesses pure epoxy resins. Solvent or water is not present in this product. 100 percent solids cycloaliphatic epoxy comes with an array of features… namely highest gloss levels, resistance to wear, and superior adhesion. The solvent-based epoxy is not a preferred choice because it contains volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The VOCs can prove to be dangerous for your health. The solvent-based products also lack glossy finish and resistance to wear, which is usually expected from flooring. Just like the 100 percent solids epoxy, water-based products also have two parts that require mixing before application. The consumers using the water-based products face the issues like chipping, cracking, and pealing. A lot of water-based epoxy manufacturers claim that it resists hot tire marks, but it is not true. If you are using water-based or solvent-based epoxy, apply at least two coats to attain sufficient thickness, which will result in better durability and wear resistance. 100% cycloaliphatic epoxy is the only epoxy of the three choices where you get what you pay for. Solids do not evaporate or dissipate. How much of your investment do you want evaporating into thin air?  Check for the “build” while purchasing the product, which is the thickness obtained after an epoxy is dried. The build of an epoxy is directly proportional to the amount of epoxy resins in the product.

Examine your garage floor

Your first task should be to analyze the type of epoxy your garage floor needs. The experts recommend 100 percent solids cycloaliphatic epoxy, as it is a highly-resistant, industrial grade epoxy coating. Resists chemicals, oils, grease, and other substances that ordinary paints fail to withstand. Available in many different colors. The information present on this page will allow you evaluate the condition of the concrete. You will also learn how to clean and etch the concrete as well as professionally install.

Prepping the floor

Remove oil spots from the floor. You must use a good quality acid etch solution. Do not skip scrubbing, vacuuming, and rinsing. Next, fill the cracks (optional) and use a “oil stop” primer / vapor barrier (only if the floor is heavily contaminated or displays signs of hydrostatic pressure). After these steps, apply 2-part cycloaliphatic epoxy. On the third day (within a 15-24 hour window, you can apply polyurea clear/top coat, though not required with EpoxyTech as coating as is extreme high gloss in itself. Coating maintains the wet look even when it is dry.

For older floors with heavy contamination, you will need to profile the floor mechanically. To mechanically profile the floor a floor sander with diamond head attachment is recommended. You can rent these from most tool rental or big box stores. Typical price is $80.00 for four hours.

You must wait for 28-60 days before applying epoxy floor coating if the concrete is fresh. This waiting time ensures that your floor completely cures and dries. If you are working on an already painted or sealed floor it is recommended to mechanically profile as well. It is not necessary to sand to bare concrete. Simply scuff and score existing coating to ensure a mechanical bond.

The temperature of the concrete floor should be 55° Fahrenheit temperature, and air must have a temperature of 60°-90° Fahrenheit. These conditions will ensure that epoxy cures/dries and adheres effectively.

Prep Instructions

The process begins by pre-treating the oil stains. Immerse a stiff-bristle brush into a degreaser/cleaner and scrub the stains forcefully. Use paper shop towels or cotton rags to wipe the floor clean. Repeat the process until there is no greasy feel and water droplets do not bead up on the floor. Begin the process by sweeping the garage using a stiff-bristle broom. You can also rely on shop vacuum or leaf blower if a broom is not available. Mix up Etch & Clean solution with 5-gallons of water (ratio should be 1:5) or as per the label directions. Pre-treat problem areas and scrub the floor entirely. Scrub for 20 to 30 minutes for cleaning a two-car garage floor. The floor should be kept wet at all times during the scrubbing process. Scrub in the corners and along the walls using a stiff-bristle hand brush. Let it dry until the formation of haze. Flood the floor with water using nozzle end and hose to spray out the material from the garage for at least 10 minutes (as per the manufacturer, you can rinse diluted “Clean & Etch solution” into a storm sewer using a large amount of water. After the process, the concrete surface feels like fine-grit sandpaper. Test the concrete for moisture or “hydrostatic pressure” by duct taping 24” x 24” plastic piece to concrete (make sure it is air tight). Allow this piece to sit on the surface for 48 hours and then check the condensation on plastic.

For problem oil spots there is also a test for that as well. Simply drip a drop of water to the problem area and see if the water dissipates into the cement or beads up. If water beads you will need to retreat and use a “oil stop” primer.

Selecting an Epoxy

Finalizing the type of epoxy you need in your garage is the most crucial decision. Epoxy floor coating, which is made up of highly durable resins, is available in two parts. These two parts are mixed before their application.

There are three major types of epoxy floor coating, which include water-based, solvent-based, and 100 % solids. The water-based and solvent-based epoxies have epoxy resins in the range of 38-60 percent, whereas the 100 % solid variant possesses pure epoxy resins. Solvent or water is not present in this product. 100 percent solids cycloaliphatic epoxy comes with an array of features, namely highest gloss levels, resistance to wear, and superior adhesion. The solvent-based epoxy is not a preferred choice because it contains volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The VOCs can prove to be dangerous for your health. The solvent-based products also lack glossy finish and resistance to wear, which is usually expected from flooring. Just like the 100 percent solids epoxy, water-based products also have two parts that require mixing before application. The consumers using the water-based products face the issues like chipping, cracking, and pealing. A lot of water-based epoxy manufacturers claim that it resists hot tire marks, but it is not true. If you are using water-based or solvent-based epoxy, apply at least two coats to attain sufficient thickness, which will result in better durability and wear resistance. Check for the “Build” while purchasing the product, which is the thickness obtained after an epoxy is dried. The build of an epoxy is directly proportional to the amount of epoxy resins in a product.

Installation of Epoxy Flooring

You need to turn off all the appliances present in the garage, including water heater. Gas also needs to be turned off. Make sure pets and children do not come near the driveway and garage during the installation process.

After the floor has dried, you should use epoxy crack filler to fill holes, spalled regions, and ¼ inch or bigger holes. A putty knife is needed to finish the surface level. Allow it to dry 4 hours before applying the first coat. Take the support of a stirring bit and a drill and mix both the components of epoxy for 3 minutes. Mix at a moderate speed to avoid bubbles. Go through the label directions to mix an appropriate amount of epoxy that covers the square footage of the garage. Also, the whole batch must be applied before the 40 minute batch life. A natural-bristle paint brush is recommended to cut in the floor edges. To effectively shut the door overnight, the area underneath the door of the garage should be taped. This ensures children and pets do not enter the garage until floor is cured. Also protects the garage from dirt and dust. A “Do Not Enter” sign across the doorway will also ensure that no one enters until the floor is ready. Do not paint/coat the garage apron.

Move at a elevated speed while coating the floor. It will take less than an hour to complete your two-car garage floor. You can also add decorative flakes and aluminum oxide non-skid granules before the epoxy tacks up. After the completion, wait at least 24 hours or as per the label directions before permitting foot traffic. You can park the cars on the floor after around 48 hours.

Clear / Top Coating:

We recommend a polyuria clear/top coat. It is a one part moisture cured product. Apply within 15-24 hour window after base-coat. Top coat adds depth to look of floor plus additional wear resistance. Works well to seal in flake and coat over non-slip to retard abrasion. A clear coat is not required to reach and maintain high gloss levels. While not absolutely necessary it is advantageous provided your budget allows.

Suggested tools and product to ensure efficient and hassle-free installation:

  1. Epoxy Coating
  2. Oil Stop Primer (in case the floor is heavily contaminated)
  3. Dry/Wet Shop Vacuum or leaf blower
  4. 2 inch paint brush (Disposable)
  5. Rubber Gloves
  6. Safety Glasses
  7. Clean & Etch solution
  8. Clear/Top Coat (not necessary)
  9. Squeegee
  10. Epoxy Crack & Patch Filler (not necessary)
  11. Paint Roller
  12. Mechanical Mixing Wand